Georgian Diaries

Disorganized Crime

I once read a newspaper article that declared Tbilisi, the capital of the Republic of Georgia, to have the worst expatriate lifestyle of any city in the world.  Two years later, I’m sitting at my dining room table, looking out on a courtyard of aging Soviet apartment...
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The Complexes of a Georgian Traffic Cop

The method is the same across the former Soviet Union.  Police spot checks are conducted at random street corners, whether in the heart of town or outside some backwater.  They stand patiently in drab green uniforms, a Russian-made Lada parked just beside.  Cars race...
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Three Days ‘Till a Miracle

It's not every day that you're told about the guaranteed occurrence of a miracle, in advance with the precise place and time, and even offered a lift.  During the night of every May 20, I was told, water flows out of the surrounding stones of the tomb of Saint...
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Nestle, Nutella, and Nymphs

You can find plenty of Cocoa Puffs in Tbilisi.  Modern Western-European style supermarkets have been sprouting up all over, an alternative to the bustling open-air markets.  The milk tastes exactly the same (albeit at twice the price) but move down the pristine...
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