Fifty Years of Desert Flames

Konye-Urgench, Turkmenistan With August temperatures consistently over 50 degrees celsius and scant rain, you wouldn't expect the Karakum desert to be a very friendly place. But the combination hundreds of miles of sand dunes and animals out of a science fiction movie...

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Turkmenbashi, My Leader

Ashghabat, Turkmenistan His father was killed by the Germans in World War II, his mother and sisters died in the devastating Asghabat earthquake of 1948. So Saparmurat Niyazov had a difficult childhood growing up in an orphanage, an experience which seems to have...

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Twenty Dollars for Transit

Ashghabat, Turkmenistan Also sprach Zarathustra. Nietzsche. Kant. I had just shown the border guard my German passport and out came the great names of German philosophy. It was a strange welcome to a remote border crossing between Iran and Turkmenistan. Everyone that...

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